Although I spent years as a generally happy vegetarian, I have to admit, Thanksgiving always bothered me. Not because I was squeamish about people eating turkey in front of me — quite the opposite, really. What bothered me was the fact that I could never come up with a turkey-substitute main dish that I actually liked. Tofurky? Ugh, made me gag. And let’s not get into the year I made a dish with lentils before I understood I was allergic to them.

If I had just hung onto my vegetarian principles for a few more years, I can only imagine the delight I would have had finding Gourmet magazine’s offering of not just one or two dishes but three entire vegetarian Thanksgiving menus.

I mean, look at this mushroom and farro pie:

Truly, it puts all the Tofurkey to shame.